FAQ
Underbody Questions
Should I coat a brand-new truck or wait?
Coat it before its first winter, ideally before delivery. New steel needs only a wash and scuff, prep costs are at their lowest, and every season you wait adds prep work and locks in whatever corrosion has started. Fleets that coat at upfit get the best cost per year of any timing.
My truck already has some rust underneath. Too late?
Almost never. Surface rust and tight scale get wire-wheeled and sealed under the membrane, which stops the corrosion reaction outright. What we will not do is coat over perforated rockers or scaling frame sections without flagging them — active structural rust needs repair first, and we will tell you before any material is sprayed.
What does an underbody application cost?
It scales with vehicle size and condition: a clean late-model pickup needs roughly 8–10 liters of material plus labor; a rusty crew-cab dually needs more prep and more mils. Request a quote with year, model and a photo or two and you will get a real number, not a range.
How soon can I drive and wash it?
Drive the same day — the film is tack-free in minutes. Hold off on pressure-washing the underbody for 24 hours while it reaches full cure. After that, wash as aggressively as you like; washing off is not a failure mode this product has.
We are a dealership — how does the program work?
You get material at program pricing, an application spec your recon or partner shop follows, menu-pricing guidance for F&I, and printable film-performance data for the customer folder. It demos on a lift better than any chemical package on your current menu. Ask for the dealer one-pager.
How long does it really last?
The membrane is permanent in normal service — it will outlast the drivetrain. Plan a five-minute annual look at high-abrasion points (leading edges, skid contact areas); stone damage stays local and is patchable. There is no reapplication schedule because none is needed.
Protect My Underbody
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